Rouen - Boscherville - Jumièges, June 21st
Rouen: Formerly one of the largest and most prosperous cities of medieval Europe, Rouen was the seat of the Exchequer of Normandy during the Middle Ages. It was one of the capitals of the Anglo-Norman dynasties, which ruled both England and large parts of modern France from the 11th to the 15th centuries.
Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville: Not much to tell you except that it has a beautiful abbey, which is why we went there.
Jumièges: It is best known as the site of Jumièges Abbey, a typical Norman abbey of the Romanesque period, and the home of the pro-Norman chronicler William of Jumièges who wrote the Gesta Normannorum Ducum about 1070. Now ruined, the abbey dates from 1067, when it was consecrated in the presence of William the Conqueror.
Our Day Trip Route
We started in Honfleur, went to Rouen, then Boscherville, then Jumièges, then back to Honfleur. All of these cities are along the Seine River, which also flows through Paris.
Place du Vieux Marché
This is the old marketplace. There are many nice examples of half-timbered houses in Rouen.
La Couronne (Restaurant)
Founded in 1345, is the oldest inn in France. It is in the historic city center and the dining room on the 1st floor contains paintings of personalities. In 1948, the restaurant served chef and author Julia Child her first French meal, which was said to inspire her to devote her life to promoting French cooking. We had lunch here.
Église catholique Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc
This is the interior of the Church of Joan of Arc. This is a modern building that looks like an upturned Viking ship.
Église catholique Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc
Stained Glass
Église catholique Sainte-Jeanne-d'Arc
Barrel vaulted ceiling
Beautiful Building in Rouen
Shopping Street in the Old Part of Rouen
Ticket to Ride!
Our favorite family board game... in French!
Rouen Cathedral
The history of this church is amazing. The following are some milestones:
A church was present at this location in the late 4th century, and eventually a cathedral was established in Rouen. It was enlarged by St. Ouen in 650, and visited by Charlemagne in 769. All the buildings perished during a Viking raid in the 9th century. St. Romain's tower was built in 1035. The cathedral was struck by lightning in 1110. Construction on the current building began in the 12th century. The cathedral was burnt in 1200. The cathedral was again struck by lightning in 1284. In 1302, the old Lady chapel was taken down and the new Lady chapel was built in 1360. The spire was blown down in 1353. Construction of the south-west tower began in 1485 and was finished in 1507. The Butter Tower was erected in the early 16th century. Butter was banned during Lent and those who did not wish to forgo this indulgence would donate monies of six deniers Tournois from each diocesan for this permission.
The original Gothic spire suffered a fire in 1514, nevertheless the project of a stone spire was denied and a wooden construction covered with gold-plated lead was begun in 1515, a parapet was added in 1580. In the late 16th century the cathedral was badly damaged during the French Wars of Religion: the Calvinists damaged much of the furniture, tombs, stained-glass windows and statuary. The cathedral was again struck by lightning in 1625 and 1642, then damaged by a hurricane in 1683, the wood-work of the choir burnt in 1727 and the bell broke in 1786. In the late 18th century after the French Revolution, the state nationalised the building and sold some of its furniture and statues to make money and the chapel fences were melted down to make guns to support the wars of the French Republic. The Renaissance spire was destroyed by lightning in 1822. A new one was rebuilt in Neo-Gothic style, but of cast iron instead of wood. The cathedral was named the tallest building (the lantern tower with the cast iron spire of the 19th century) in the world (151 m) from 1876 to 1880. In the 20th century, during World War II, the cathedral was bombed in April 1944 by the British Royal Air Force. Seven bombs fell on the building, narrowly missing a key pillar of the lantern tower, but damaging much of the south aisle and destroying two rose windows. One of the bombs did not explode. A second bombing by the U.S. Army Air Force (before the Normandy Landings in June 1944) burned the oldest tower, called the North Tower or Saint-Romain Tower. During the fire the bells melted, leaving molten remains on the floor. In 1999, during Cyclone Lothar, a copper-clad wooden turret, which weighed 26 tons, broke and fell partly into the church and damaged the choir.
Rouen Cathedral Plaza Panorama
Rouen Cathedral
Rouen Cathedral
Rouen Cathedral
Rouen Cathedral
Rose Window
Rouen Cathedral
Gargoyles
Rouen Cathedral
This gargoyle looks like he is going to spew something on Wade
Gros Horloge (Great Clock)
A fourteenth-century astronomical clock
Gros Horloge Interior
View from the Gros Horloge Tower
Window Looking Out of the Gros Horloge Tower
View of Rouen from the Top of the Gros Horloge Tower
Church of St. Ouen
Begun in the early 14th century.
Rouen Cathedral
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
A former Benedictine abbey located in the commune of Saint-Martin-de-Boscherville. It was founded in about 1113 on the site of an earlier establishment of secular canons and settled by monks from the Abbey of Saint-Evroul.
There was a wedding just finishing up when we arrived. This is a beautiful example of an intact Abbey, which was a nice setup for our next stop in Jumièges, as you'll see below.
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
Abbey of Saint-Georges, Boscherville
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey was a Benedictine monastery. In 654 the abbey was founded on a gift of forested land belonging to Clovis II and his queen, Balthild.
In the ninth century it was pillaged and burnt to the ground by the Vikings, but was rebuilt on a grander scale by William Longespee, Duke of Normandy. A new church was consecrated in 1067 in the presence of William the Conqueror.
The abbey became a great centre of religion and learning. It reached the zenith of its fame about the eleventh century, and was regarded as a model for all the monasteries of the province.
The church was enlarged in 1256, and again restored in 1573.
The French Revolution, however, ended its existence as a monastery, leaving only impressive ruins.
The ruins are truly spectacular. We arrived late in the day and only had 30 minutes to explore and take pictures. Luckily the light was very nice at that time.
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey
That's Lauren standing between the pillars.
Jumièges Abbey
Jumièges Abbey